The Spawn of Cerebus
The alarm goes off in the ultimate blackness. Our alarm clock is a cacophony of random arrhythmic annoying sounds and so is particularly grating at 4:50 in the morning.
“Steeeeeve,” complains Sam.
I assume it’s because she wants me to deal with the alarm, which to my dream befuddled mind seems both unjust and unfair as the alarm lies closest to her.
“Hit snooze! Hit snooze,” I yell, I plead, anything to stop that damnable noise.
She turns it off and when I complain, I realise she was not asking me to deal with the alarm, but was rather ensuring that I was awake as I have a tendency to sleep through the evil and distressing high pitched ringing, whizzing and beeping cries emitting from our electronic time piece.
I have no idea how I have slept though it before, but at this accursed hour Sam is not going to wake up if I’m not, and fair play to her. We briefly discuss going back to sleep but as we have both been suffering from tempestuous dreams, we decide to stick to our original plan and arise.
We brush our teeth, don my head torch and leave our hostel, unshowered and unclean to enter the pitch black stone paved roads of Hampi Bazaar Village, a barely 900 m X 900 m town grown out of the carcass of the ancient remains of the capital of the last medieval Hindi Empire. (I think it’s Hindi.)
The megalithic stone temple that rises 15 stories above the town cannot be seen in the dark, but as we walk past it and away from it down the dust road past closed restaurants and curio shops, music is playing from it for early morning prayers, and people are setting up stores and moving about in this unfortunate and ungodly hour, just the time of day they typically arise.
A dog howls and barks in the darkness and Sam clutches my arm in fear. We swiftly move down the dust road, passing the bus station and another menacing dog, which together mark the end of the village, which lasted just a few hundred metres of dust road in its length.
A lone richshaw driver tries to convince us to blow off our plans and take his rickshaw for a 7km drive to catch the sunrise, but we’re determined to stay our course, which is to take the 20 minutes to scale a small hill to catch the sunrise over Hampi Bazaar, an experience considered to be one of the top twenty five experiences one can have according to the the Rough Guide’s Top 25 Experiences One Can Have in India.
We push on past the rickshaw driver, guided by my headtorch, a device as ridiculously nerdy as it is useful, into the darkness, into what we hope is the right direction.
We have two options with the headtorch. The first is to shine it downwards to ensure we do not step in the continuous, yet randomly placed animal manure, or to shine it upwards to ensure we do not miss our turn off from the road.
Jesus! Another howling barking dog in the blackness! My torch illuminates the menacing brute barking from the roadside. It looks vicious and hungry.
Sam grabs my arm and we pick up our speed to get away from the barking in the dark.
Another from the other side of the road!
Faster!
Faster into the dark!
Sam has 72 hours of grace if bit by a rabid animal, whereas I have 24, seeing as I opted out of paying over 90 quid for the shot. (Sorry Mom.) Frequently in India we have seen gangs of roving dogs, but unlike the ill-bred mutts of Thailand, these arew sleek and sandy and move together more like packs of wolves then domesticated hounds and can be heard howling the night away.
The growling of another in the darkness. It’s eyes glint in the reflection of the torch and it howls to the stars, causing a string of howls from which direction I cannot tell.
How many of these carnivorous hell-hounds are out there, those descendants of dark eyed and glinty teethed Cerebus? And why the f–k did the guidebooks never mention this?!
Then an anomaly occurs as a yellow beast bounds out of the dark towards us, non-stopping, right up to us, but without bark, and without bite, and one with one lame leg and one stripe of mange, it playfully bounds about us, tail wagging, which is fine, and far preferablle to being snarled and growled at, at least it was until the point it began to leap up on us.
Sam nearly stifles a shriek of terror as it jumps up, it’s paws almost as high as her neck and I am hard pressed to do the same when it bounds at me. On the bright side the dog isn’t trying to eat us, on the dark side, we can’t get rid of it.
We stoically continue on our odyssey through the darkness with our new best friend running between our legs, nearly knocking us off our feet, bounding onto our bodies and playfully nipping at our hands.
Suddenly it stops, sits down, and dissapears. We look at where it was sitting and then look up and forward to behold a terrifying sight.
At least 7 glinting torch reflected pin pricks of lights stare at us from the isolated darkness of this isolated dust road. A triangulated pack of growling menacing beasts face us, standing in an almost equididstant ‘V’, reminding me of experiences with hunting packs of Wild Dogs in the Kruger National Park, except wihtout the protective armouring of a car, and with a larger amount of baleful glares and snarls and with us as a focal point of that undomesticated dastardly pack of carnivorous curs.
“They can smell our fear! They can smell our fear!” whisper-wails Sam.
“Do you want to go back,” I gulp, staring in consternation at those menacing creatures blocking our path.
But the terror has struck and Sam is rooted in the dusty soil unable to move, trapped tree-like in her terror.
I firmly grasp her arm and propell us back along the road, hoping we aren’t eaten alive, and our friendly companion joins us limply loping alongside as the danger has passed, and as we speed back to the safety of stone-built Hampi Bazaar.
Finally back in the stony streets amongst the hustle bustle of pre-dawn Hindi community we stop.
Stupid rough guide.
A rickshaw driver approaches us and our dog and convinces us to go watch sunrise at a temple about 7 km’s away, and because there’s no way we’re waking up again this early tomorrow, and there’s no way we’re going to die the ignoble death of being devoured by those damned dogs and because we want to see the damn sun rise over this damn beautiful land we agree and so we’re off.
It was the best sunrise I have ever seen. From the top of an ancient temple we survey Hampi’s boulder strewn landscape, there are no hills exactly, just massive boulders laid on top of each other, somehow stacked together to reach gigantic heights, sporadically separated by ancient remains rising in the foreground and distance and with stretches of verdant palm trees standing in valleys between the giant boulder hill mountain things.
The boulders have been weathered by the wind and all the peaks of the boulder hill mountain things appear to be man-made, in that massive stones of different sizes seem to precariously balance one on top of each other in the most improbable, unnatural and beautifully crazy formations I have ever seen.
The sun rose, literally red as a rose, and seemed more like the rising moon then the sun, as we could stare straight at it.
A monkey appeared and our rickshaw driver said: “Good morning, Hannumon” the name of the Monkey God who’s territory we’re in. The monkey looked at us and almost seemed to nod, as behind it the red sun slowly topped the horizon, a perfect blood-red coin, the landscape illuminated to create the most intensely, inexpressibly, indubitably sublime sunrise I have ever had the pleasure to witness.
